Calloway High Efficiency Collector Circuit
08/09/00 - courtesy of Robert H. CallowayBUILD THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!
This circuit is a design used by Robert Calloway based on both John Bedini's and the Adams' designs overunity motor and energy collection experiments posted on his website at the end of this page.
another internet user offers the following as their understanding of John Bedini's device.
Prototype Adams Motor
Here is the redrawn circuit that Robert so kindly shared. He indicates it allows collection of sufficient energy from a rotating magnet arrangement so as to provide 1 Watt above and beyond what it takes to recharge the battery. If you choose to experiment with such devices and wish to share your findings, advice or any anomalies, please direct your comments to Robert Calloway or to Jerry Decker so they can be posted and archived publicly in the KeelyNet Interact discussion list. When everyone shares we all learn the most.
The battery is a 9 volt DC transistor battery. Coil construction and other details can be found in the report on the School Girl's science fair project (below). I will integrate as much information as I can into this file as information is provided.S2 gives the option of whether or not the battery will be recharged. I'm not sure why you would want to do that, other than to DRAIN a fully charged battery to verify how long the motor runs without recharging. Then, after replacing the battery with a new one, close the charging circuit with S2 to see how much longer the motor runs With the Battery being RECHARGED. In the case of the School Girl, who won the science fair with her version of Bedini's recharging motor, the 9 volt transistor battery reportedly ran the motor at 4,000 RPM for 5 days and the battery was still fully charged when they shut it down. That is, to say the least, HIGHLY EFFICIENT.
Note: you have to experiment with the number of magnets and coils, as well as their placement to achieve the best level of operation.
10 year old girls' Science Fair Project
John Bedini's Website Reports or Comments
Additional comments from Robert Calloway.Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 18:46:11 -0500 Hello Jerry, I see nothing wrong with the circuit, a job well done! The single diode is the 6 amp blocking type. Probably a overkill, but I got it at work. The bridge is a 400 volt @ 2 amps. The coils are 370 turns of #19 magnetic wire. The cores are very important. It is a 12 volt system, using a 4 ah (amp hour) gel cel battery. The flywheel effect must be used with this design. Use the rotor shaft to drive a generator instead. A 5/8 all thread shaft will screw right through the grinding disk with a nut to lock it in place. It is then very easy to adjust magnet to stator gap. My rotor (flywheel) is a 7 1/4 inch grinding disk rated for 8400 rpm. The weight is 7 lbs with the magnets glued to it. For an easy put together motor, use 5/16 mild steel bolts by 2 inches long. Check these bolts with a magnet, make sure they do not retain magnetism. Wrap the shoulder of the bolt with one layer of electrical tape. Find some leftover plexiglass and take a 2 inch hole saw and cutout 2 plugs per coil. Slide one of the plugs on to the bolt to the head, them slide the other one on to the shoulder of the bolt. After having your shoulder of the bolt wrapped to protect the wire, start winding. Make sure you wind both coils in the same direction. The resistance in the coil is about 00.6 to 00.7 ohms. The threaded portion of the coil core can now be used for easy mounting. Serious builders may use mild steel filings mixed with epoxy for the cores. This must be a heavy mix of metal with the epoxy. A plastic spool with about a 5/16 hollow center works good with this application. Do not use field coils on the rim to collect current! This is a BIG no- no. This motor can do some strange things with an air gap smaller than 5/32. I recommend the magnet and stator coils air gap be no closer than 5/32 for safety. Adjust the timing, and get used to the motor before experimenting with the air gap. The scope and meters won't make sense at times. Oh well.. I wont get into that for now. I place the reed switch down on the base of the motor now, and let the rotor magnets activate it. This does away with the complicated timing stuff on the end of the shaft. When I get the funds together.. My dream is to build a 16 pole motor that uses 8 stator coils. It will be a twin disk rotor that utilizes both ends of the stator coils. Should be a hoss..on paper anyhow. Almost forgot.. Keep the pulses short from the reed switch. One can move the reed switch around on the base to achieve this. If you have got the pulses as short as you can get, and need them shorter, place a piece of thin iron between the reed and the magnets. Remember..if the pulses are a fraction too long, energy is being wasted. You can also add 2 extra magnets to the rotor to obtain more power at the rotor shaft. Place them 90 degrees apart. Remember that poor reed switch would then be working 4 times per revolution. The 2 stator coils should be hooked up in parallel, but it will work hooked up in series. - Regards, Robert
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